So it came as something of a shock – actually, a series of shocks – to accompany members of Sisonke Masilwe Indlala to their rural settings and realize that some things have changed for the worse.
| It came as something of a shock – actually, a series of shocks – to accompany members of Sisonke Masilwe Indlala to their rural settings and realize that some things have changed for the worse. |
In the heart of the former Transkei homeland, in a village named Mt. Arthur by the British, the language and culture of the Xhosa people still thrive.

Xhosa women in traditional garb ready to dance |
A large number of women in traditional garb welcomed us with singing and dancing, eager to share aspects of their community’s way of life. Other representatives, however, spoke of some present day difficulties, including malnutrition and hunger. As oppressive as the homeland regime was, it did offer some resources and encouragements to small farmers; abject hunger was virtually unknown. The priority of the current government is large-scale commercial agriculture for export, and there is little interest in supporting smaller farms or gardens in local villages. As people grapple today with the realities of not enough food, some say that they were better off, hunger wise, under apartheid.

Japie of Karatara telling his story |
In the lush timberlands of the Southern Cape, small communities of forest worker families face a bleak future. Under the former regime, the forests were owned and operated by the state, and these settlements were encouraged as convenient sources of labour and lookouts for fires. Now that the timber industry has been privatized, the new landlords state that they are “in the business of trees not people,” and the fight is on to preserve the settlements rather than to see families relocated to urban slums. Japie, one of the leaders of the forestry indaba in Karatara, dreads the prospect of having to move his wife and daughters out of the forest.
Under the parched and rocky soil of Sekhukhuneland in Limpopo Province lie extensive deposits of platinum and other minerals. We were led on a tour of several villages where mining operations have resulted in the displacement of farmers from their fields and families from their homes. What had been a standard practice under apartheid – the forced removal of whole communities from land desired by those in power – seems to be still acceptable to those in power now, the international mining houses and their allies in the South African government. The day of our visit platinum was quoted at $2,000 an ounce on the world market. No wonder the struggle here feels like David versus Goliath, even a whole consortium of Goliaths (Australian, Canadian, Chinese, European, American).

The SAMP delegation and their local guides in Limpopo |
I am immensely grateful to our companions in Sisonke for helping our delegation to see with new eyes. I pray that we will continue to see things as they really are, as we continue to accompany one another.
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