As Lesotho’s main employer, the textile industry’s ups and downs in recent years have greatly impacted not only those employed in the factories and their families, but also other related industries such as local and freight transport, housing, and small food traders whose stalls line the streets outside, providing hot food, snacks and fruits to workers. ‘M’e Mostsami, Lesotho’s Director of Industry, says that for every person employed, 5 other lives are affected. She also agrees that AGOA has contributed positively to Lesotho’s employment, creating some 10 000 jobs to date.
Following the adoption of the 2000 AGOA agreement, textile imports from Africa into the US grew significantly. At its height in 2003-04, 52,000 Basotho were employed in local factories. As these factories are wholly foreign owned by primarily Taiwanese investors, the end of the Multi Fiber Agreement in late 2004 brought about a shocking change of events in Lesotho. With quotas being lifted, China and India now became major competitors in the US market.
Some of the Taiwanese investors in Lesotho found it more profitable to return home where they could produce more for less due to their cheaper labor market. So without notice, some factories were closed and over 10,000 people lost their jobs overnight. Instead of being contributors to the Lesotho economy, they became competitors.
Since then, efforts by government and the local labor movement to “win back” investors is working with South Africa, for one, finding a niche here. China is also investing big time in Africa and Lesotho, which will also have a future impact. So currently the industry is again moving in a healthy direction, employing some 49,000 people, back to nearly its highest level.
As to the extension of the AGOA agreement (passed by the US in December 2006), this is also seen as a positive move for Lesotho and other African countries. It extends until 2012 the exemption allowing Africa’s producers to use fabric from third countries to manufacture clothing. This is important because most African countries cannot yet make their own cloth. Denim is produced in Lesotho and made primarily into jeans, but Lesotho also needs to diversity its production to include such items as knitted and high fashion clothes to be competitive and meet the 2012 deadline. Investors along with government will be important components to its success or failure.
Another aspect of the extension, an abandoned supply arrangement, is designed to encourage clothing manufacturers in Africa to use their own fabrics and, where possible, source from one another. For example, Lesotho could sell surplus denim to South Africa who, in turn, would manufacture jeans and export them to the US. As well, mills in Lesotho could buy materials from Zambia to supply their needs.
An additional development is that agricultural research has shown that cotton can be produced in Lesotho, which could provide numerous paths of opportunity. However the viability and implementation of that is still to be seen.
‘M’e Motsomai recognizes the challenges ahead, primarily being able to produce our own materials and, in turn, finished products. Foreign investment and ownership are important but, as we’ve seen, can also have negative and positive impacts. A representative from the local clothing union also notes that the impacts of AGOA have been good however some local laws present limitations and biases that affect the workers. On the positive side of that, the government has initiated an Inter-Ministerial Task Force to consider such issues and look for solutions. The labor union is included in that process.
The renewal of these provisions of the AGOA agreement first came to the attention of Kopano ke Matla through our partner presbytery, Los Ranchos, who had been following Lesotho’s textile industry for some time and actively promoting the purchase of jeans, shirts, etc from the GAP, Banana Republic and other stores carrying Lesotho made products. As the Network and presbytery began to discuss how the US church might begin to influence the US government in the passage of this measure, we began to see the possibilities of advocacy, creative strategies and influence by the broader church in true partnership with Lesotho. And that was exciting!
Knowing the bill was due for passage by September 2007, the expectation was that this was clearly a project in the making. It was also a practical way to show our solidarity with our partner country -- that the church was serious in coming alongside them to influence change to unjust and unfair systems that affected poverty in Lesotho.
But, alas, by the end of the year the extension to the agreement had been passed and the opportunity to advocate had dissolved like a mist on a hot day! It was actually a little disappointing in a way – but we trust that was just to whet our appetites for the next opportunity. And we truly welcome the positive impact this will have on Lesotho’s textile industry and those whose lives are affected by it. |